Zawaya

One hijab, many hijabs...

By: Iqbal Al Gharbi

A specter is haunting both sides of the Mediterranean: the hijab, or the Islamic headscarf. Some governments forbid it, namely Turkey, Tunisia and France; whereas others tolerate it. The hijab has become a State issue.

Notwithstanding polemics and controversies, it is useful to examine cultural representations and the Arabic-Muslim imagination to better understand this problematic.

The Islamic culture is marked by a stereotypical representation of females as being eternally characterized by deception, flirtation and seduction. In the imagination of the Muslim orthodoxy, the Islamic veil guarantees purity and righteousness. Veiled women are invisible, dark, shapeless and innocent, thus enhancing stability and the established order in the Islamic city.

Nevertheless, the meanings of wearing the hijab keep changing and evolving. Besides satisfying religious requirements, the hijab has a variety of complex, oblivious and certainly contradictory motives.

For some Maghreb women in quest of benchmarks, the veil is a return to the roots and a form of identity recognition. For other ladies who are under the influence of Eastern TV channels, and who follow a literal interpretation of Islam, the veil is a religious obligation.

Under certain circumstances, the veil is seen as a means of emancipation, since it allows women to enjoy their freedom and move freely in the street without fearing male gazes.

Times have evolved, everything has radically changed, and the logic of capitalism requires the exposure of femininity. The dictatorship of goods requires the movement of the female body, and revolutionizes the veil!

Talented stylists and thriving businesses offer different models of Islamic veils, with accompanying accessories and small details. All these accessories are fascinating. Golden and silver pins adorned with diamonds or shining items on the one hand, and headbands braided with golden silk on the other hand, compete in terms of beauty.

The fabrics of the headscarves are very chic, blending taffeta and muslin, and combining satin and organza. We create veils, superimpose fabrics, and have fun! Colors are vibrant: orange and pistachio green represent a bright makeup on their own! We combine tints, play with shades – rosewood, pink and light pink -, and blend contrasts with black and white highlighting the clear complexion of the face!

Long and adjusted djellabas refine shapes and highlight statures, and fine high heels enhance one’s walk and capture eyes. The general pace becomes floating and enigmatic!

And the summer’s biggest hit is undoubtedly the “Islamic swimsuit”. It was very popular on Maghreb beaches, and available in several models, from cycling shorts to long skirts, including little black skirts on top of the one-piece swimsuits.

The veil may appear today as a relevant topic to study the indicators of the overflowing binary oppositions between the East and the West, and between Islam and modernity. The veil always questions psychic motives, as well as the cultural, social and political sphere of individuals, thus driving us towards relearning the art of deliberation in order to better grasp it.